Background

On 16-Feb-2014 I started working as a Field Manager at Maximo Nivel in Cusco, Peru. That day my now colleague and friend, Medy, also began her Field Manager experience. Since I have known Medy she has wanted to go to the Festival of the Virgin del Carmen in a small town called Paucartambo… last year she was unable to go due to work and has yet to experience the festival. This year, however, as her going away present for finishing her year and a half work agreement I decided that it would be a fitting send-off for her, as well as an opportunity for me and another colleague, Silvia, to actually take a day off from work, get out of Cusco, and experience one of the more unique Peruvian folkloric experiences you can imagine.

The Festival

Every year on the 15^th of July the small town of Paucartambo, located maybe 3-4 hours outside of Cusco, celebrated the festival of the Virgin del Carmen (known locally as “Mamacha Carmen”) for 5 days. About 90,000 people from all over pilgrim to take part in the celebrations. (3)

I passed through this town back in November of 2014 on my way to visit one of our jungle conservation sites. It was pretty, but quiet and unassuming. This time around we entered the town on the night of the 15^th to a chorus of fireworks, oceans of people and staged pyrotechnics already in full effect. The streets were swarmed with people, costumed dancers seemed to outnumber the observing tourist, bands and orchestras were playing, and drink was rather easy to find.

We stayed at the home of one of the host families who we work with in Cusco, and I am very grateful for this opportunity… normally the most challenging aspect of this trip is arranging accommodations for the night, and often people will just camp outside once bed space dries up. I tackled this challenge by just staying up all night, wandering the streets and spending time with friends old and new.

Tres Cruces

At about two in the morning Medy and some people I knew from Lima decided to make a trip to the Tres Cruces… a location which is considered to have one of the best sunrises in all of the world. The bus ride there was pretty cold, but once we got out of the bus and made our way to the edge of the mountain range we were treated to a pretty unobstructed view of the Amazon below us. The sun slowly made its ascent behind a stage of ever-changing cloud animals and was admittedly quite pretty.

The Dance Groups

We returned early enough to Paucartambo and, feeling tired, I finally got a bit of rest as everyone else was beginning their day. On this day all sixteen of the dance groups in the festival process around the streets. I’m told by Medy that in order to be allowed to dance one must have roots in Paucartambo. It’s a pretty big deal and group members take their preparation very seriously. Weeks before the festival each group begins training and rehearsing the choreography. Each group tells a different story, has its own unique and elaborate outfits, and performs a different dance.

The family I stayed with dances the Capaq Negro dance. This dance honors the slaves who were forced to work during the colonial period. Its music and dance is quite steady and stately. (2) Medy dances it around the office all the time! Each group member makes their own outfits and not one is identical to the other. Everyone wears a black mask, a beautifully elaborate hat and a red and black staff in the form of a fist.

My friends and I were honored to be allowed to eat lunch and dinner with the group. As we knew members of the group we were invited to their rehearsal space to eat, drink and be merry in between their extended dancing sessions in the town’s streets. During these meals I met many people I knew from Cusco and it made me realize that more people are connected and participate in these cultural and folk traditions than I would have realized. It also made me appreciate the work I do much more as it is through my work that I have been able to know the Peruvian cultural and people on a much deeper level than your average tourist.

The Principal Procession

After lunch all sixteen dance groups processed around the streets, with all but one dancing backwards so as to be able to face the carried statue of the Virgin del Carmen. It was an extravagant showing to be sure. The streets were packed, orchestras were blaring, and everyone expressed their devotion to the Virgin del Carmen… everyone except the people dressed up as demos hanging out of the windows of buildings as the Virgin passed by. Fortunately, thank goodness, the demos were powerless against the Virgin and would have to avert their faces as she passed by.

Impressions

I found the festival to be quite interesting and entertaining; unfortunately, work required that we return back to Cusco after only 24 hours there. I would like very much to return one day and experience the festival from beginning to end and learn more about the other dances and dance groups. I did love how these folkloric traditions are still so well preserved and venerated not only by the Paucartambinos, but also by the 90,000 or so pilgrims who came from all over to experience it.

Bibliography

1. “Feasts of the Virgin of Carmen – Paucartambo.”The Virgin of Carmen. Web. 8 Aug. 2015. <http://www.cuscoperu.com/en/festivities-events/july-august/virgen-del-carmen-paucartambo>.
2. Thompson, Laurel. “A Thorough Introduction to The Virgen Del Carmen Festival in Paucartambo, One of Peru’s Most Unique Yearly Festivals (Cusco).”Kuoda Blog. 9 Dec 2013. Web. 8 Aug. 2015.
3. “Dancing for Faith in the Exhuberant Virgin of Carmen Festival in Paucartambo.”Blog. 5 June 2014. Web. 8 Aug. 2015.